![]() Number 2 is also better because the metal strip holds up to playing a lot better than the plastic, and you can tension it so it gives you a well defined contact point. Option 2 is more difficult to measure, but it gets rid of the hum entirely. Option 1 gives you a simpler way to read the strip as a resistor divider but it doesn’t completely remove the issue. ![]() This still gives a capacitance path through the insulation so you still get a tiny bit of modulation and hum, or 2) invert the whole thing and put a grounded metal ribbon on top – preferably still insulated on the top side. The solution to that problem is to 1) insulate the ribbon from the top. Either way, the point where you touch the ribbon becomes a path for these currents and it sums up to the currents that go through the ribbon. If the whole thing runs on batteries, it doesn’t matter, but as soon as you plug into an amp your oscillator goes bonkers because the ground lead gives you a path for all the currents that you are picking up from the environment, or maybe there’s some voltages in the ground wire and you’re conducting them to the floor or something. The difficulty is that when you touch the ribbon, you get a rather strong AC hum from your fingers and it tends to mess up with any voltage measurement. Posted in how-to, Misc Hacks Tagged 4049 hex inverter, CMOS synth, potentiometer, Ribbon Controller, square waves, velostat Post navigation Slide your finger past the break to check ’em both out.ĭepending on what you have lying around, it may be easier to make analog instruments like this rubber band boinger or its country cousin, the wheelbarrow bass. The rest of the ribbon controller is a sandwich of thin copper plates and non-conductive plastic mounted on a wood base.īut what’s a fun controller without a fun instrument to control? As a special bonus, made a little square wave-squirting synth based on the 4046 hex inverter and included the schematic for it. Here the wiper is made from Velostat, a fun, low-cost conductive material that’s also pressure-sensitive. ![]() While it would definitely be an interesting exercise to make your own standard twist-style potentiometer, shows that making a ribbon controller is relatively easy.Ī ribbon controller is essentially a deconstructed potentiometer that uses your finger to actuate the wiper. Synthesizers of all stripes are often controlled with various types of potentiometers. Whenever you’re ready to have some next-level fun, try making controllers for your DIY instruments. And besides, noise plus rhythm equals music. Even if it’s a straight-up noisemaker, that’s noise you can be proud of. (If it fail, make sure that you have the correct drivers installed, the correct isp programmer name, the "firmware" folder with all the others files in it, good connection on your circuit, and the AtMega out of the circuit (put it on a blank breadboard just to program it) and well connected to its 16Mhz crystal on the proper pins.There’s kind of a special joy in making instruments, no matter how simple or complex they are. (black spots left to the atmega, names are in blue on the left on the picture.) Take attention when doing it, if you plug it the wrong way, you may destroy your atmega32 !ĭone ! Firmware flashed on the microcontroler ! :D Then connect the programmer to the computer and the pins to their right spot on the stripboard. I added the command "pause" at the end to prevent the console to close herself after process is done, that way you can see if the process went successfully or failed. Mine is "usbasp" so here is my file : avrdude -c usbasp -p m32 -B 5 -U flash:w:anode.hex -U lfuse:w:0xBF:m -U hfuse:w:0xD9:m pause ![]() Open the file "make-anode.bat" in the firmware folder, and change the name after "-C" to the name of your isp programmer. Install WinAVR (for windows) (to allow the computer communicate with the atmega trough the programmer) : Link HERE I'm just going to give you the headlines on how to do it with the isp programmer listed before (make sure that the drivers are installed correctly, you can fin useful infos on that by searching on Google.) You can see detailed instruction on how to do it HERE. To burn the firmware on the atmega32, you first need to download the firmware folder on GitHub.
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